![]() Or a completely failed switched (0 resistance across the switch with it extended)with slightly bad ground( high resistance but not open). ![]() A bad door jamb switch(high resistance with door closed or switch pressed in) but not bad enough to keep the dome on. To the other guys that have a dim ajar light with the dome light going off. basically the switch is controlling the ground side and you should have available voltage going to it. So bench test all of your door jamb switches. with the door open or switch extended out almost 0 resistance. I believe with the door closed or switch pressed in there should be open circuit on your meter. I never had to deal with door jamb switches but it should be simple to test. if the ground was bad you would get no light or weak light. your grounds are good the fact the the light is staying on. The existence of this problem was discovered because the alarm system was going off during all hours of the day and night.Click to expand.need a wiring diagram to be sure. There are lot of reasons why cutting is not the best option if you have another option to choose from.ģ. I'm never in favor of cutting any factory wiring when you can disconnect a harness. I'm telling you this because I was about to Cut the Red/White wire and make a new ground by attaching it the metal on the door with a self tapping screw and new wire terminal end. It was also against the "inside" side of the sheet metal. Mine was covered in gray foam to minimize rattle noise and was somewhat hard to see inside the dark rear hatch door area. The pigtail mentioned in the solution is about 6" to 8" from the latch mechanism. This was the solution for the floor lighting frequently staying illuminated when all doors were clearly closed on a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder.Ģ. It's simply a way to disable the 5th and only unseen "Door Ajar" sensor which could short and cause such a problem.ġ. This should not affect the rear hatch power lock, rear window release, rear wiper, rear defogger or Tire Carrier Ajar sensor. Tape off the open pigtail and secure to prevent rattling. Locate the pigtail connection attached to the mounting plate: One ground (wire) connected to the mounting plate, the other (red w/stripe) connected to a wire connector just fore of the locking mechanism.ħ. Standing at the rear driver's side of the hatch, fish your left hand through to the back of the hatch lock mounting plate.ĥ. ![]() With the interior hatch panel removed, close the hatch.Ĥ. You may need to remove the two screws securing the window release lock plastic cover, too.Ģ. Remove rear hatch panel - Two plastic screw fasteners, the rest are simple panel pop rivots. To fix the problem permanently (without major hassles), try the following:ġ. Also try adjusting the hatch lock striker hook backward and forward to adjust closure tightness (12mm socket and three bolts to loosen/tighten). If there's a short circuit, often the extra pressure will close the open circuit. Test the theory by applying pressure to the outside of the hatch back lock. There is an unseen sensor behind the hatch panel which grounds to the mounting plate of the hatch lock assembly. I appreciate your response but as I was unable to locate the rear hatch switch (no problem finding the rear tire ajar switch) this is what I found on Google and after a quick lunch I am going to give it a try and let you know my results:Īnswered my own question - If you ever encounter a "Door Ajar" sensor and it's not one of the four doors, it's probably the hatch back sensor. ![]()
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